This reduces efficiency since you will feel warmer and be more likely to adjust the thermostat to get some relief. If the vent directs cool air in front of a warm appliance or a warm window, there will be even greater heat transference, and this again means less cool air gets to where you need it to be. For instance, if the airflow is blocked by a piece of furniture, some of the air’s coolness will diminish because it will be hitting against a warmer surface. Whenever a vent’s airflow is obstructed, you will reap fewer benefits in terms of comfort. Since the air vent diverters allow you greater control over which areas of your home are receiving the climate-controlled air, it is an effective way to conserve energy and extend the life of your HVAC system. You can adjust them upwards or downwards depending on your air redirection needs. This HVAC accessory is typically made of plastic and fits over the air vents in your home. How Do Air Vent Diverters Work?Īir vent diverters, or deflectors, work by redirecting the air coming from the vents for optimal heating and cooling. Keep reading to learn more about air vent diverters and how they can work to enhance residential climate control. Installing an air vent diverter, also known as an air vent deflector, is a simple way to maximize the output of your home’s HVAC. By redirecting your air vents, you can make sure the treated air goes to the right rooms, rather than going to rooms you rarely use. If you find yourself too cold during the winter or too warm during the summer, or if you have rooms that are less than comfortable, this might be an issue with airflow. Often the initial mud layer was carefully plastered with a lighter colored clay.Closing vents might seem like a good solution in some cases, such as when furniture blocks them, but air vent diverters offer a better, more energy-efficient solution. A thick layer of mud on the outside of the roof and walls protected the shelter from the weather. The exterior of the pithouse was formed of branches, packed tree bark, or brush and grass. The interior sides of the pit were plastered with clay or lined with stone - either large slabs wedged upright in the soil or courses of smaller stones. They were joined by horizontal beams and crossed with ceiling joists. These posts were carefully chosen and trimmed to create a branch or fork at the top as a structural support. Pithouse construction was usually based on four corner posts positioned upright in the pit. Many pithouses included an antechamber, containing storage bins or pits. Interior space was often loosely divided into two rooms, one for storing personal and dry goods and the other as living quarters. Later homes expanded the pit into a keyhole shape to create a low sheltered entrance. Early homes utilized the ventilation stack as an egress by means of a ladder. The placement of the home's entrance varied by locality and archaeological period. These homes were also warmed by a centralized hearth, a fire pit with an air deflector, and side vents and a hole in the roof provided fresh air and evacuated smoke. The sunken floor of the dwelling is below the frost line and helps moderate both winter and summer temperatures, with the mass of the ground serving as an insulator. Pithouses were built by excavating a well defined hole into the ground, usually around 6" to 18" deep but occasionally as deep as four to five feet, and creating walls and roof using a pole and adobe technology.
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